Saturday, May 16, 2015

Dismantle Asus SonicMaster SubWoofer

Lately the external subwoofer of our Asus notebook started to malfunction.

I thought it probably was due to the number of times it has fallen on the floor... :-)
So I decided to take a look inside.

In theory, you should be able to dismantle it by simply turning the subwoofer base in the right direction... but during the assembly process of our subwoofer someone spilled too much glue...

So I forced my way in with some pieces of plastics cut from an old badge...

Well... many pieces of plastics...

And a screwdriver to finish the job...

Anda Ta-Daaaaa, here is the mini-subwoofer!

To dismantle it, I fundamentally broke it's 4 clips
And here is the spilled glue that forbid me to open the subwoofer by simply turning it's base

The subwoofer it it's resonant box

But I noticed that, interestingly, the resonant box is not just a simple plastic cylinder, but it's composed by 2 concentric cylinders, with a bit of air in between.

So, let's dismantle them! (There are just 2 screw that keep them together)

Here is the internal cylinder.

And here is the external one.

All the parts:

The jack, it's a 2.5mm one.

And here is the cable connection schematics I found after doing some test.

Black and Red wire are connected to a 200k ohm resistor (a 5 band one: Red, black, black, orange, brown) This is probably used by the notebook to detect when the subwoofer is connected.
White and Yellow cable are connected to the speaker. My tester measure a 4 ohm impedance.

And the vertict?
The subwoofer, the cable and the jack are ok.
It's the female jack on the notebook that isn't working properly.

But now, at least, we know how to properly dismantle it... :-)

Update: there is a possible fix!
Here is a comment, posted by Alex At, that explain how the female jack works and how to try to fix it!
Alex At also draw a nice diagram.

Image by Alex At
 Here is an excerpt of Alex At comment that accompained this useful diagram:

Basically from what I managed to understand after studying the board holding the tiny 2.5mm female is that the signal connectors (for white and yellow) are naturally in contact when there is no jack insterted. They are springed and stay together until you plug the male jack. When the subwoofer stops working the issue most likely comes from these two pins. The cone shape of the male jack tip serves as a threshold for the separation of these two connectors upon insertion, that is why if you don't insert the jack fully the subwoofer won't work, that is why if the jack doesn't have the precise size it won't work... the connectors will not detach from each other, thus sending a scrambled signal to the subwoofer, causing it to make crackle sounds or get no sounds whatsoever. Forget about checking the connectors for the ground and red wire, those work ok, the issue is at the tip where white and yellow have a common spot. My suggestion for you is to apply a bit of solder onto the tip of your jack, laterally just behind the area with the largest diameter; insert the jack and spin it slowly, at some point it might touch the right spot and get the signal. And again, use some contact spray cleaner, this system is all about passing the right current values.
 That's some very useful information, thanks Alex At!

Update: added a short dismantle video


  1. only suppose to rotate the bottom clockwise....

  2. Thanks a lot! My sonicmaster was glued at exactly the same spot, but when you know how to turn it, it opens without damage even when using some force...
    Now i can replace the broken jack or the whole cable
    What is the problem with your female jack?
    When i bought the notebook the sub woofer "trembled" as if the membrane was broken, but everything looks OK...This is very annoying...Is this like your problem?
    Thanks a lot & best regards Michael

    1. I thought the problem of my subwoofer was a broken cable (the subwoofer fell many time, hanging on it's cable...) but after testing the cable with a tester, everything is fine.
      The problem is that the jack, sometime, doesn't make good connection with the notebook.
      Now that I know where the problem is, I usually move/push/pull the jack until it works.
      Once it start working, it's ok until I move it again.

  3. Nice article. Do you know how to plug in a common speaker usb powered speaker on it and treat is as a subwoofer? I have a big speaker 3.5mm 3 pole, tried plugging a 2.5mm 3 pole and wiring the two but unsuccessful. *sorry for bad english.

    1. The fact is that the subwoofer use a 4 pin/contact jack.
      Of those 4 contact, 2 carry the audio signal, the other 2 (I suppose) are connected to a resistor, and are used by the notebook to detect when the soobwoofer is connected.
      So, it is possible to connect a usb powered speaker to the subwoofer jack, but you need to build a connector by yourself.
      You can use a 4pin 2.5mm male jack like this one
      and the solder some wire/resistor to make a converter, but you need some basic electronics/soldering knowledge to do that.

    2. Hi! I have exactly the same problem. The female jack is damaged and the subwoofer (a brand new one I have bought) won't work. Have you, by any chance, found a solution? If it was possible to find a spare female jack somewhere, I suppose it would be possible to replace the faulty one on the laptop.

    3. Sorry, I haven't found any special solution.
      On my notebook sometime it works, sometime it doesn't, whet it doesn't works I move the jack/cable/subwoofer until it works.
      It should be possible to fix it with a new female jack... but in my opinion it's not worth the risk.
      You need to dismantle the notebook, get out the PCB where the jack is soldered, desolder it, and solder a new one.
      I'm in no way good enough to put a soldering iron on a motherboard of a notebook... :-)

    4. Hi Massimiliano. I'm just writing to let you know that I finally managed to replace the faulty part (that comes along with the female jack) with a new one I bought online. It's not a very difficult process, as long as you are willing to take the "risk" of dismantling the notebook. The part itself is quite easy to replace, no need for soldering whatsoever. You only have to remove two screws and one cable to take it out. The code of the part is 60NB0030-IO1, in case you or somebody else is interested in attempting a replacement procedure.

    5. Good job!
      May I ask where did you ordered the replacement part?

    6. On eBay. It's quite easy to find and it costs around 20 euros. Oh, and one important detail, my laptop is the N56V model.

    7. Now I understand why what I was seeing when looking for 60NB0030-IO1 parts didn't match the ports on my notebook. My Asus is a N76VZ, so the part number is probably different... :-)

      Thanks for sharing.

    8. Yes, the part will probably be different. Sorry for not clearing this up earlier. I think that the best way is to dismantle the notebook and see the part number written on the sticker of the part by yourself. That's what I did, since I couldn't find any information online.

  4. Hey, Do you know what speaker is in the sonic master. How many watt does the speaker delivers?

    1. I have no idea... when I dismantled the subwoofer I didn't see any useful code.

  5. Hi! Thanks for the article. I have a slightly different problem. My subwoofer had also fallen on the floor quite a few times. But the last time it happened, the connector (male jack) broke in half. Is there a way to fix this? Changing the cable or the connector/jack? Obviously,my knowledge on electronics is very limited, so this would be done by someone other than myself.

    1. Your problem should be fixable.
      You should be able to use a new 2.5mm 4 pole male jack ( ) , cut the old jack, and solder the new one to the old cable.

      Naturally you need to solder the right wires to the right jack contacts.
      If your subwoofer use the same connections as mine, I've sketched the contacts at the end of my article.

    2. Hmmm... since ebay was the only supplier of these jacks I found (and the jack + shipping to Slovenia would cost me at least 20 EUR), and given the fact that I would have to pay someone to fix it, I think I am just going to go ahead and order a new one.

      Thanks for the answer, nonetheless.

  6. Hello all, glad to find this topic! Here is my issue with the Sonicmaster subwoofer: a year ago my nephew accidentaly broke the 4 jack pin while the woofer was connected to my Asus N76VB laptop... I guess that the female jack was somehow affected too because a little piece of plastic from its external margin broke too. Now, I bought a 4 pin 2.5 mm jack, soldered it correctly as per scheme, checked resistances across all wires, checked the 200k resistance and it's ok... but in the end all I could get from the subwoofer was some popping sounds and buzz while I was rotating the jack trying to see if the female is the culprit. Problem is that regarding the Sonicmaster subwoofer people also seem to have problems with the Realtek drivers too, that are a bit buggy on windows 10. To cut this short I am facing too many variables now with my problem: the 2.5 mm 4 pin jack I bought seems a little bit shorter than the original... is the female broken... or the drivers (installed and reinstalled different versions of drivers all day long)... or is windows 10?... I also tested the speaker on my brother's Asus and it doesn't work...

    1. Hi, my notebook is an Asus N76VZ.
      I can tell you that I recently updated it to Windows 10, and the audio driver/subwoofer are working fine. I didn't touch the driver, Windows 10 upgrade made everything by itself.

      Other than that, if the new jack is a bit short it could create issue, but it's hard to tell... I can only say that the tip of the jack is one of the 2 contacts that carry the audio signal to the subwoofer, so if it's too short maybe that the signal is unable to reach the speaker...

  7. Hi,
    i also have the same problem on my N76vz, sometimes not working, just needed to move the cable, but today no way to make it works. I spent one hour on the internet to find the part but just find the one for the n56...

    You still didn't fix it on your ? i can't believe there is no way to change this part... i just sent a mail to asus France to ask them about that, i will let you know their answer

  8. Mine finally died :'( like one year mooving it to make it working but today no way :'( :'(
    same model as you n76vz and one hour searching how to buy the part, but just can find for the n56.

    did you finally found a way to fix it ?
    I sent a mail to Asus France to ask hthem where can i get the part, waiting on them

    Don't you think it can be fixed without changing the part ?
    Soldering or don't know how ?

    1. Hi, as of today I'm still able to make my subwoofer work by moving the cable/jack. I didn't find any other solutions.

      Probably it's possible to dismantle the notebook and looks at what's wrong on the female jack... but I don't like the idea of dismantling my notebook just for that; notebook are never easy to properly dismantle/reassemble.

    2. Bad new guys... Asus Support just answerd me.
      On the Asus N76 is integrated on the sound card who is integrated to the motherboard...
      So no way to change this part...
      They told me to send it to them for a non-garantee repair :(

      So take care of your woofer !!!

    3. Ah, sad news :-(
      Anyway, it's good to know.
      Thank for the information :)

  9. Guys hello again! I think I have found a possible fix! (I'm the guy with the post from January 10, Alex is my name btw). So I dismantled my notebook only to find out that the female jack is soldered on a board that also holds the power button, board that "only" costs 55$. After measuring everything I had to conclude that the female jack was apparently OK, having continuity between all ends of different connectors. Reassembled everything back and had another look to the male jack that I soldered previously...even this one had continuity between the ends of its 4 contacts... connecting the male into the female gave some voltage arriving at the subwoofer and different values for resistance... so why not working? Well, I bought another male jack, redid the soldering and this one WORKS, but not always. To put this short the real issue is that because of the small voltage passing between the female jack and the woofer, and the fact that everything is working based on corect resistance values across all wires and contacts, it's really important to: USE HIGH QUALITY MALE JACK, preferebly golden plated, USE HIGH QUALITY SOLDER and ensure MAXIMUM CONTACT SURFACE between male and female... imagine that my 2 dollars jack works perfectly now, but if I connect it tomorrow it will not work unless I fiddle with it a bit, turning it around. The same, some half hour after soldering works ok, then starts to interrupt... Heat the solder and it works again. Basically, the values of the current that makes this subwoofer to work are so low that even a small amount of oxide that naturally forms on the jack and the solder points will block the proper current flow, without loosing actual continuity between the ends. So today I arrived from work, plugged the subwoofer being sure it will work, as yesterday it did flawlessly. But no, again no signal, and then a bit of signal arriving randomly. I pulled the jack out, replugged it, rotated it... but no stable signal. Then I just sprayed it with WD40 cleaner both on the connectors and the whole area at the other end where the wires are soldered (the jack I bought has threaded tap, so the solder points are accesible). And BAM! IT WORKS PERFECTLY! I also plugged it without wiping the liquid, so that the female gets some of that liquid too ( lool, sorry for the words :). IT'S NOT THE FEMALE, IT'S NOT THE MALE: IT'S THE QUALITY OF THE MATERIALS! Buy a good jack, good solder wire, use soldering acid when you solder the wires to ensure they solder quick and strong, and even if you do a perfect job they don't work just use some contact cleaner/wd 40 to refresh the surfaces. As we speak my subwoofer works perfect.

    1. Thank you for reporting your experience, that's interesting.
      A female jack should have some kind of spring that push the female contact toward the male jack, probably those springs/contacts are wearing out, and due to that and some oxide on the male jack the connection is unstable...

      I ask myself if it's possible to "revive" the spring inside the female jack by pushing/pulling them...

  10. Here is a more detailed drawing I made:
    You may update your initial post with this image so that everybody gets the idea (feel free to credit or not credit me). Basically from what I managed to understand after studying the board holding the tiny 2.5mm female is that the signal connectors (for white and yellow) are naturally in contact when there is no jack insterted. They are springed and stay together until you plug the male jack. When the subwoofer stops working the issue most likely comes from these two pins. The cone shape of the male jack tip serves as a threshold for the separation of these two connectors upon insertion, that is why if you don't insert the jack fully the subwoofer won't work, that is why if the jack doesn't have the precise size it won't work... the connectors will not detach from each other, thus sending a scrambled signal to the subwoofer, causing it to make crackle sounds or get no sounds whatsoever. Forget about checking the connectors for the ground and red wire, those work ok, the issue is at the tip where white and yellow have a common spot. My suggestion for you is to apply a bit of solder onto the tip of your jack, laterally just behind the area with the largest diameter; insert the jack and spin it slowly, at some point it might touch the right spot and get the signal. And again, use some contact spray cleaner, this system is all about passing the right current values. Ci sentiamo piu tardi, magari riesci a sistemarlo ;) (yes, I do speak some Italian, some of my best friends are Italians too)

    1. Wow, that's some very useful information!
      I've added you diagram, and an excerpt of your comment, to the original post.
      When my subwoofer will get worse I'll try your fix.

      Thanks you very much for sharing those informations! :-)
      Grazie :-)

  11. Hey! We're here to help each other. You did a great job by creating this thread, dismantling your gear and posting photos, there are many people having issues with this subwoofer and very little info on the web on how to deal with these issues. I also forgot to mention that my diagram does not show the actual positioning of the female connectors in threedimensional (but I guess that this is pretty obvious lol). So, to make it even easier, let's write it down here: looking straight into the female's hole (pardon the expression once again) first and at the top there's the ground/- connector, next and at the right is the connector for yellow signal (the longest springed one), the next is at the left side and it's the connector for red/+, and the last one is the white signal, at the right side of the female. At the bottom there is nothing, just a small plastic retainer that stops the tip of the male jack. So, when you think your female starts to misbehave the area that most likely is the culprit is the area in the bottom right where the signal connectors join.

  12. Hello there. I just managed to break the jack of my subwoofer inside of the connector (yeah, it is stuck in). Provided that somehow I manage to bring it out of the slot (that will involve superglue and a ton of luck), do you think it would be possible to replace the now broken jack of my subwoofer to a P2 jack, and hook a 4 pin p1 to p2 adapter? I am asking that because I'm having a hard time trying to find this 4 pin male p1 connector here in my country. Any insights (about how to extract the stuck male jack from the connector also) are appreciated. Thanks.

    1. I think that a 2 contacts jack will NOT work.
      The fact is that you need 4 contacts: 2 contacts will carry the subwoofer audio signal, the other 2 contacts are connected to a resistor inside the subwoofer that signal to the notebook that the subwoofer is connected.
      If the notebook don't "feel" the right resistor on the right contacts, it won't send the audio signal to the subwoofer.

      Good luck for the broken jack extraction (maybe you can also try to use a vacuum cleaner, if you find a good way to connect and seal the vacuum tube to the notebook...)

    2. Thank you for your answer. For what I understood, the resistor connecting the black and red cables is inside of the subwoofer, so provided I can find the right male jack and solder it the way it was before, it should work, right? Just managed to remove the broken jack from the slot using a little drop of superglue on the broken base and leaving it for a day. Will go to every electronics shop in town tomorrow to see if I can find this conector. In case I cant find the p1 jack, do you know where I could get a new subwoofer from? Looked on ebay and on Asus europe, but it seems like they're sold out.

  13. Is it possible to buy a 3.5mm male to 2.5mm female adapter, connect adapter to the subwoofer. Then connect the 3.5mm plug to a standard laptop headphone jack. I have this subwoofer from my ASUS and I'm upgrading to a new Dell laptop and would still like to use the subwoofer. Thanks

    1. Never tried it. If you get lucky, please let us know. :)

    2. I think that it will not works because:
      1) a headphone output doesn't have enough power for a subwoofer (or any kind of speaker bigger that 1cm)
      2) a standard headphone output have 3 pins, but the Asus subwoofer have 4 pins. So the 4 pin jack of the asus subwoofer is specifically made to be connected to it's asus notebook
      3) The subwoofer isa able to reproduce only a small part of the audio spectrum, but if you connect it to a headphone output, it will be the only speaker trying to reproduce the whole audio signal. And it wont work.
      4) The subwoofer is a single speaker, but the headphone output have 2 channel

  14. Massimiliano, I would like to really thank you for all the investigation you carried on this subwoofer. After visiting all electronics shops here where I live (Natal - Brazil), and not succeeding in finding a 2.5mm jack with four pins like the original Asus one, it struck me that old Nokia phones used to work with 2.5mm headsets. Since I don't have a lot of experience in soldering, I decided to try my luck in joining the wires of a Nokia Headset with those of the subwoofer. Using a multimeter and the scheme you gave us for the pins, I was able to connect all wires and my Subwoofer is now back in business. Also, I was able to make the cable longer and it probably will stop the subwoofer from falling down the table and hanging by the wire. Here is the type of Nokia Headset I've used:

    I was kind of scared of Alex At comments about the quality of the plug and the quality of the solder, but I used a very regular solder and the Nokia Plug and wires seems good enough. To me it was a cheap fix, spent around 4 euros on it.

    1. Great job! :-)
      I'm happy that you fixed it!

      Just keep an eye on the cable, check it to be sure it didn't get hot.
      I don't know how much power does the subwoofer use, but it surely use much more than an headset :-)

    2. I am from Quito-Ecuador, and I did the same with a Nokia Plug.

      The results are excellent, except for the look.

  15. I bought a new VGA/Subwoofer jack board on ebay for $8, also I noticed the plug doesn't fit flush against the jack b.c of the thickness of the caes, so after I removed the old board I made the hole larger by using a scissor (putting it into the hole and turning it back and forth until the hole was large enough so the entire front of the plug would fit into the hole (not jut the tip of the plug) so now the plug fits flush with the jack (not sure if I even needed a new board maybe just having the plug fit flush with the jack would have solved the problem?). Scott16

  16. Is there a way to buy or make a bigger and more powerful to work with this laptop?

  17. Is it possible to build your own SonicMaster Subwoofer?

  18. My 2.5mm subwoofer jack just broke again and the cheapest board they are selling now is $18, anyway what I did was remove the jack from the board and soldered on wires to the solder points (there were 5 of them) does anyone know so I soldered on 5 wires (needed to use a magnifier glass to do it) anyway now that I have the wires soldered on all I need to know is a replacement jack (I was thinking of using a 3.5mm jack and running it out of the laptop as I figure a 3.5mm one probably won't be as flimsy as the 2.5mm (realy probably some sort of Mini-Din connector would be even better) but what I need to know is the signals coming off the 5 solder points (anyone have a schematic diagram of the board or the audio jack?).

    1. At the end of my post there are 2 schematic of the subwoofer connection, on draw by hand, and another one by Alex AT.
      But in both schematic we have just 4 wire, not 5.

    2. I gave up and decided to build an amp to power this subwoofer (for about $20), including a 16bit usb sound card (bc you can't play the sound out of the headphone jack and have the speakers work at the same time without the usb sound card), I used a 19volt Ac adparter for power (12v to 19v power is ok), got a Subwoofer crossover, and a high quality AB class Mono Amp (15 Watts), since it's 15 Watts I got to keep the volume knob down (probably not more than a 1/3 the way up) or it will probably break the woofer?, anyway here's a list of most of the parts I bought hopefully this will work well (I just ordered the parts and usually they take 2 weeks to get here from China and Hong Kong).

  19. They sell 3 watt amps too (which might be a lot more suitable for this purpose) but they have no volume control on them.

    like I said with 15 watt amp I will have to keep the volume down low or it will probably break the woofer.

  20. Well it works but unfortunately the crossover is wrong bc I hear a lot more than just the bass coming out of the subwoofer ( it might cut off the high frequencies I'm not sure but I hear singers voices and other treble) but it sounds good, I guess I have to look for a better crossover.

  21. I Thought the crossover wasn't working right but it seems that the human voice goes much lower than I thought so it could be the crossover is working but the crossover frequency isn't as low as the one that Asus uses (I didn't hear any voices when using the subwoofer out of my N56VJ).

    1. I don't know the cut frequency of your crossover, but usually real subwoofer work at very low frequenzy like between 20Hz an 100Hz. (It depend on the speaker size... toget 20Hz you probably need a 20/30cm speaker)

  22. Ok this didn't work the USB sound card came yesterday but windows still won't let me run the internal speakers and the headphone output (to connect to the subwoofer amp) at the same time, I tried an app that is called virtual audio cable but I couldn't figure out how to get that to work either, so I guess the only way to do this is to use a headphone jack splitter and use small usb powered speakers (about $8 to $12 on ebay) and the subwoofer, and run them both off the laptops headphone jack bc there's no way to get the internal laptop speakers and a USB sound card to run at the same time, of course there's no need for the USB sound card now. As far as the crossover I'm returning that and getting a refund and I bought a car line level crossover box for $10 which hopefully will work, anyway this has been a fun project but bc of Windows (which won't let me run the laptops speakers and headphone jack at the same time) and also the crossover that didn't work right, it's been a bit frustrating too.

    1. Windows is a bit limited about listening to the same audio on multiple output, I've struggled with that some time in the past, but I haven't found a definitive solution.
      On some computer I've been able to have the same audio coming out from both the Motherboard's audio card and an extra USB audio card by enabling the "stereo mix" output, and "checking" the "listen to this audio" or something like that.
      So, each sound went out on the motherboard jack, and form the other audio card. This worked on Win 7... but created weird audio effect after upgrading to Win 10. And this was on a desktop computer.
      On notebook, usually, thing get nastier... :-)
      Your mileage may vary.

  23. So here's the final parts list ( just bought this line level subwoofer crossover $10 (to replace the one that didn't work, hopefully they one will work).

    The rest of the parts (no need for a USB soundcard now just a headphone jack splitter)

    And finally any cheap pair of small usb powered speakers should work (needed bc windows wont allow the laptop speakers and the headphone output to both work at the same time), Something like this one (there's many different ones on ebay for $8 to $12).

  24. It was the wrong kind of headphone splitter (that one was for a headphone with a microphone), this is the kind I need.

    And I'm trying to confirm from the seller that this box will do what I think it will do (act as a line-level low frequency (Bass) crossover).

    At this point I'm totally confused. :)

    1. This crossover should do what you think.
      But keep in mind that, with a crossover like this one (that essentially is a low-pass filter) you will get 2 output:
      1) one output for your subwoofer, with only the low frequency for the subwoofer
      2) another output that get ALL the audio frequency: High, mid, low, subwoofer

      So, the frequency that you send to the subwoofer will also be sent to the normal speaker.

      This may be a problem, or not.
      If the "normal speaker" aren't able to reproduce the subwoofer frequency, then this is not a problem.
      If the "normal speaker" can reproduce the subwoofer frequency, the you'll find yourself with a lot of bass :-)

  25. I decided to buy an Amp that would drive both the speakers and subwoofer without a separate crossover, I ended up buying this amp (it's cheaper and it works on 5V and it's small.

    it I already had a pair of Asus N56VJ replacement speakers I bought on ebay for $8 in the past.

    So I just need to run the audio out of the heaphone jack into the amp and that will drive the 2 speakers and the subwoofer together.

    I saw a bigger Amp that ran on 12V (which may have slightly better sound?, but I decided to go with the 5V one bc it's smaller), here's the 12v amp which i didn't buy.

    Here's the speakers (I had them already) $10 new.

    Or $5.60 used.

  26. I finally got the amp in the mail yesterday and put it all together
    and it sounds great!, I'm just waiting for a connector I ordered so I can run it off USB, right now I got it connected to a 5V ac adapter I got with a Fuji camera and it works great.

  27. Hello everyone! I have the same problem with my subwoofer. About a year ago, while listening to music, I happened to drop my little woofer from the table and it broke the upper part of the female port. Now I need to hold up the jack with my finger for to make it work. Have you guys found any female port replacement compatible with this laptop?
    Thank you! :)

  28. Hello guys! Cable came from my subwoofer too much and i want to dismatle it. I read I can do it by rotating it. But I'm afraid to go too far with it. Is there any video, how to do it?

    1. Hello,
      I just added a short video that show how I can dismantle my Asus Sonicmaster Soobwoofer.
      Keep in mind that now my subwoofer is very loose, that's because I nearly broke it when I dismantled it the first time.
      But if your subwoofer doesn't have any spilled glue, it should be easy to dismantle it.

  29. My sub works, I would just boost it.
    How can I do?
    An external amplifier?And how many watts the subwoofer can endure?

    1. I have no idea about how may watts the sub can take.
      But I believe it could be simpler to just buy a Bluetooth speaker (one that also have a line in jack) and connect it to the headphone connector.

  30. Thank you! I cut a plastic card and picked it up with a screwdriver. The white wire came off. Greetings from Moscow!)

  31. Hi! So, I created my own speaker using your circuit schematic. Though my speaker is 1Ohm only, I can't make it work. Does the original speaker have circuitry inside it? Cause I directly connected the speaker to the jack, no circuitry.

    1. The jack should have 4 connectors/wires.
      2 of them are connected to the speaker (it's a 4 ohm speaker).
      The other 2 are connected to a 200 Kohm resistor.
      The 200 Kohm resistor is the 'thing' that tell to the notebook that there is a subwoofer connected.
      You can see how the wire are connected in my hand-drawing of the jack.

    2. Hi there! Thanks for taking time to reply! Yes I followed your specs, and finally made it worked using it. I used a 10Watts and 4 Ohms speaker that I bought. Though the sub-woofer's sound is sort of overpowered by the laptop built in stereo speaker, I can barely hear it if I distant it away from me around 2 feet. I am wondering if I need a more Wattage speaker? I'm newbie on this. lol

    3. Hi Jess,
      I don't know why you can barely hear it.
      Maybe it's due to the impedance of the speaker. I measured it to 4 ohm with my tester... but the fact is that you can't really measure the impedance of a speaker with a tester. To measure the impedance of a speaker you need proper equipment, which I don't have.
      Maybe the real impedance of the speaker i 2 ohm, or 1 ohm, or 3 ohm...
      It may also be that the impedance is right, but the speaker you are using have a low sensitivity (high sensitivity mean higher volume with the same power).

  32. Hey. I'm also going to have a go at building my own sub. Just ordered a couple of 2 inch 4ohm 10w beauties off AliX. I saw a pair of 2"s that were labeled "subwoofers" but they were 8ohm, and I figured from Jess' post that that might be too much. So I got the ones with the largest magnets I could find, claiming to be "full-range" but hopefully my laptop can make them go BOOM if I wire them up parallel for a 2ohm load. Got the laptop 2nd hand without the sub and have been doing without a subwoofer just fine the last 3 years or so, but hey, we all need a project from time to time! I'll update in a couple of weeks when the Chinese mail arrives.

    regards, Ruud

    btw: anyone interested in 99 200kOhm 1/4W resistors?

    1. Hi Ruud,
      keep in mind that any amplifier is designed to work on a defined charge.
      If the Asus amplifier is designed to work on 4 ohm speaker, it may break if you use it to drive a 2 ohm speaker.
      Lower resistance means more power... but the amplifier need to be designed to deliver this power.
      I think it's safer to use just a single 4 ohm speaker.

    2. Been a while, mail was a little slow from China.

      Started the build today. Using a log from the yard as the enclosure, as the only MDF I have lying around is 25mm thick which seems a bit thick for this kind of cabinet size.

      Will wire them up this afternoon after I get the proper connector. Maybe I'll wire up just the one at first and put it to the test, as I realise that 2ohm stability might be an issue with the (tiny?) opamp. But if there's not enough go, I'll wire up the 2nd one in parrallel. And if the amp goes it's too bad, as I presume the sub-out has a dedicated amp it doesn't share with the built in speakers (I suppose they'd use a line level x-over and not some sort of tri-mode filter) and I didn't have a sub to begin with...

    3. Okay, it works (well some fiddling with the plug is still required, despite tuning it with the soldering iron).

      Started with the 2 speakers in parallel, but this was way too loud and quality was abysmal. Then I disconnected one of the drivers and drove just the one, which was already better. But I didn't like the idea of having a bought a 2inch speaker and not using it (probably ever), so I decided to go for an 8ohm load and connected the drivers in series. This gives the best result so far. There's just that little bit of low end (well low, i'd say it starts at 80-100Hz) that's totally absent without the sub, and it's reasonably tight too, I would say SQ-wise it's on par with the built-in "b&o" speakers. If I pull out the sub, the sound is REALLY tinny and I really wonder how I could have accepted this for 3 years... One complaint though: the LPF of the sub-out is not steep enough to my liking, 1,5kHz or so is still audible through my "full-range" drivers (only now do I see Sherri84 had the same sort of issue). Contemplating to play the drivers "inside-out" to roll off some more mid but my log-enclosure does not allow for this, so I guess I'll have me another project on hand in the near future.

      Thanks for sharing all the info on this page, my life is already better because of it.

    4. Thanks Ruud for sharing your experimets :-)

  33. thank y'all very much for all the detailed experimental work you did and for saring the info. Allthough i feel like giving up on this.
    I managed to get a better contact by bending the female contacts with a sewing needle slightly. Bizarrely, the subwoofer works quite reliably when I almost close the lid of the notebook. What a disgusting misconstruction!

    1. It's weird that it works better with the lid closed... maybe the issue is not the connector, but the connector/board soldering.
      Maybe that when you close the lid something inside the notebook bend slightly, and this make for a better contact (I had a small netbook that had similar issue with usb devices not working with open lid, but working with closed lid)